Migrate devpi from minikube to indri (launchd) (#341)

## Summary

Devpi was crash-looping under memory pressure on the minikube StatefulSet, breaking the Python toolchain across the repo (`mise run docs-mikado`, `prek`, every `uv pip install`). It moves to indri as a native LaunchAgent.

## What changed

- **New ansible role** `ansible/roles/devpi/`: installs `devpi-server` + `devpi-web` into a uv-managed venv, initializes the server-dir on first run via 1Password root password, runs as a LaunchAgent (`mcquack.eblume.devpi`) bound to `127.0.0.1:3141`. Bootstraps from upstream PyPI (so devpi can install itself on a fresh box).
- **Caddy**: `pypi.ops.eblu.me` now proxies to `http://localhost:3141`.
- **Playbook**: `indri.yml` gains pre_tasks for the root password and the new role.
- **service-versions.yaml**: devpi flipped from `type: argocd` to `type: ansible`.
- **ArgoCD**: removed `apps/devpi.yaml` and `manifests/devpi/`. The in-cluster Application, namespace, and PVC have been deleted.
- **Docs**: new how-to `docs/how-to/operations/devpi-on-indri.md`; `restart-indri.md` lists devpi in the LaunchAgent stop list.

## Already deployed (live on indri)

- Service running: `launchctl list mcquack.eblume.devpi` → PID 53888
- `curl https://pypi.ops.eblu.me/+api` returns 200 ✅
- `mise run docs-mikado` works again ✅
- 1.0G of cached PyPI data was migrated from the PVC to `~erichblume/devpi/server-dir/`
- Minikube namespace and PVC fully reclaimed

## Test plan

- [ ] `mise run services-check` (after merge)
- [ ] CI workflows that use devpi succeed
- [ ] No regressions in tools that depend on `pypi.ops.eblu.me` (prek, uv-script tasks, dagger pipelines)

## Context

This is the C1 prelude to a planned C2 chain (`mikado/retire-minikube-indri`) to retire minikube on indri entirely. Doing devpi as a standalone C1 was the right call because (a) it was urgent — it was breaking the toolchain — and (b) it shakes out the migration recipe before we commit to a multi-leaf chain.

Reviewed-on: #341

docs/reference/storage/backups.md

@@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ Other data lives directly on [[sifaka]] (music via [[navidrome]], video via [[je
 | ZIM archives (`~/transmission/`) | Re-downloadable via torrent |
 | Prometheus metrics | Ephemeral, in k8s PVC |
 | Loki logs | Ephemeral, in k8s PVC |
-| devpi cache | Re-fetchable from PyPI |
+| devpi cache (`~/devpi/server-dir/` on indri) | Re-fetchable from PyPI on first request |
 
 ## Retention Policy